I took the train to Fort William on 13 September. This is one of the most scenic train rides on earth, and I'm sure it would have been lovely if the weather had been better. As it was, there was a lot of rain and low cloud for most of the way. The train tracks occasionally passed close to the West Highland Way, another of Scotland's long-distance paths, and I saw some walkers. When I got to Fort William, I bought a map of the route and several days' worth of trail food and some stuff I could cook easily, like soup and a package of spaghetti (on which more anon). Then I hung out at my hostel and looked out the window in despair as the wind and rain picked up. The area around Fort William enjoys the heaviest rainfall in Europe, so this really should not have been surprising. Anyway, on to the narrative!
A link to Walkhighlands's description of the walk: http://www.walkhighlands.co.uk/great-glen-way.shtml
14 September 2012
Fort William to Gairlochy
Start: 10:10am
Finish: 3:10pm
Distance: 10.5 miles
Weather: Windy with periods sun and rain, clearing at 1pm
I checked out of my hostel in Fort William this morning, had a big breakfast in town, and then made my way to the old fort and the beginning of the GGW.
The first part of today's walk took me through the outer reaches of Fort William along Loch Linnhe and the River Lochy. Fort William reminds me to Waimanalo, Hawaii for some reason, possibly the proximity of the high mountains to the shore, with the town nestled between. It was mostly cloudy, with patches of blue sky visible. Ben Nevis was hidden by low cloud, quelle surprise.
After walking through Caol and skirting around Banavie (where I took a short water break), I joined the Caledonian Canal towpath at Neptune's Staircase. From here on out it was simply a matter of following the east bank of the canal all the way to Gairlochy. Two other walking parties (a couple and a group of three) kept crossing my path, and the group of three will probably continue to do so over the coming days, since they have an itinerary similar to mine. I stopped for lunch with them about midway between the Sheangain and Loy Aqueducts, and again for water at the Moy Swing Bridge. Then I hobbled into Gairlochy (that last mile and a half was the hardest), where someone from my B&B picked me up and drove me to Spean Bridge.
I'm footsore, and my left ankle and the back of my right knee started doing some odd things during the last stretch from Moy Bridge. My pecs also hurt where the backpack straps dug into my armpits. They didn't do that this morning, so I'm not sure what the deal was with that. Maybe the weight in the pack shifted around when I put it down. Tomorrow is going to be the real test: Can I walk 12 miles in a day, having just walked 10.5 miles the previous day? I guess we'll see.
Lots of rainbows and heather today. After the weather cleared, it was most serene.
***
15 September 2012
Gairlochy to Laggan
Start: 9:00am
Finish: 4:00pm
Distance: 13 miles
Weather: Cloudy but dry, with patchy sunlight
I woke up this morning feeling great. I went to bed at 8pm last night and slept almost without interruption until 7:30 this morning. When I woke up, my legs were sore but not unmanageably painful, and my feet were fine, much to my surprise. My shoulders were the most sore part of me. I had a hearty breakfast at the B&B, got a ride back to Gairlochy, and set off toward Laggan.
Loch Lochy was on my right-hand side for almost the entire day. The way took me to Clunes (my first rest stop of the day), where it joined up with a Forestry Commission track. This was charming at first. Trees all around me, a loch nearby, and a well-packed gravel and dirt track underfoot. This was my kind of walking!
But then it got wearisome. Devoid of landmarks, it was difficult to tell where I was or how far I had traveled. Plus there was some kind of bicycle race on today, so I spent the better part of the day dodging cyclists. At least they were all coming toward me, so I could see them. Though, while stopping to talk to the couple I met yesterday, I swatted a bee and very narrowly missed smacking a passing cyclist!
I was extremely grateful to get out of the forest at last, near the north end of Loch Lochy. But as with yesterday, the final push (which I reckon was about 2.5 miles today) was the hardest, not least because I was bursting for the loo by the time I got to Laggan Locks and was bitterly disappointed to find the toilet locked. So I trudged the last mile along the canal towpath desperately needing to pee, and almost wept with frustration when I encountered TREES again. Seriously, whose idea was it to forest the canal towpath between Loch Lochy and Loch Oich? Because after something like a 6-7 mile walk in the woods, the last thing I wanted to see was more woods.
After despairing of ever getting to my destination for the day, I finally saw the sign for the Great Glen Hostel. Getting there required me walk about 300 meters along the A82, back the way I had come, and when I got there, reception was still an hour away from being open. But the bathroom was unlocked, thank goodness.
I am checked in and showered. I have a twin room to myself (because there were no female dorm beds available when I booked), which is nice. I'm nursing a blood blister on my left big toe and a smaller blister on my left pinkie toe, both of which are causing some comical walking. Why only my left foot, I wonder?
***
16 September 2012
Laggan to Fort Augustus
Start: 9:20am
Finish: 3:20pm
Distance: 10 miles
Weather: Rainy in the morning, sunny in the afternoon
Today was harder than I thought it would be. I think I was thinking "Oh, today's the short day, this will be easy."
I walked back along the A82 to rejoin the GGW, which shortly crossed the A82 again to the Great Glen Waterpark. The track climbed up into the forest to join the abandoned Invergarry Railway Line along Loch Oich. Then it was more forestry tracks until I got to the north end of Loch Oich, which was the halfway point and also my first rest break of the day. There were several trees down on the railway path, which required some interesting maneuvering around.
I began seeing blue sky near the end of Loch Oich, and it was properly sunny by the time I got to the swing bridge at the beginning of the canal. The rest of the day was canal walking, similar to the first day. I find I prefer this to the forest tracks, because I can actually see where I'm going. Unfortunately I think I saw the last of that today.
I caught up with the trio from the first day (whose names I have since learned - Mim, Helen, and Phil) at Kytra Lock, and had a break there. Then I shambled onward to Fort Augustus, and was passed by a group of kayakers along the way. How embarrassing. My heels pained me quite a lot today. Maybe I was landing on them harder in an effort to spare my blistered toes. Anyway, they bloody HURT. So when I finally reached Fort Augustus, around 3pm, I was immensely happy. Then I had to walk through pretty much the whole town to get to my hostel. Rawr. But, guess who I'm sharing a hostel room with? Mim, Helen, and Phil!
I'm nervous about the next 3 days. I really am. I'm considering trying to book an extra night in Lewiston, to give myself a rest day. Four new blisters on my right(!) foot today. I guess it figures it needs to catch up!
***
17 September 2012
Fort Augustus to Alltsigh
Start: 9:10am
Finish: 6:30pm
Distance: 11.5 miles
Weather: Sunny with occasional drizzle in the morning, rainy in the afternoon
I started this day with good intentions. I met a man on my way into Fort Augustus yesterday, and we exchanged the usual "Where are you going? Where have you been?" details. I complained about my feet hurting. And he said "Yes, but are you having FUN?" I've definitely lost sight of that aspect of this trip. It's meant to be a journey, and it's meant to be fun. It's not meant to be a painful slog into wherever I'm spending the night.
So I made a conscious effort to enjoy this day. In the morning, it was easy. The sun was out, I had my first proper views of Loch Ness, and the forestry track was broad. I shortened my stride today - a necessary measure for my blistered feet, along with 400mg of Ibuprofen - so I made slow but steady progress. I even had a bit of a sing to myself ("No Man's Land" by Billy Joel).
I stopped for a nice, lengthy meal in Invermoriston, which was an excellent idea. It gave my feet a nice rest and gave me a second wind for the last 4.5 miles to Alltsigh. The first section of the walk after Invermoriston was a steep climb, and it was a piece of cake (although this was the first time on this walk that I had to stop and catch my breath). Interestingly, uphill climbs were the easiest part of the walk today. I adopted a sort of modified lunge while doing them, which got my weight off my heels and onto the balls of my feet, which felt much better and made for quicker progress.
After passing the Stone Cave, it started raining and my mood went to pot. I was wet. I was cold. My feet hurt. The forestry track had closed back in and there was nothing to see but trees and mud. And I just wanted to get out of the rain and into my hostel, where I could put my feet up.
Finally, I saw the sign for the hostel. Now, this hostel (the Loch Ness SYHA hostel) advertises itself as being directly on the GGW. I'm pretty sure the profile says something to the effect of, "The GGW passes by our front door." LIES. You have to go through a gate, pass a couple of B&Bs, cross the poxy A82, and walk a short way up said bloody dangerous highway to get to the hostel. Cue me stalking up to the reception desk, dripping from head to toe, with an absolutely thunderous expression on my face.
They gave me a single room.
Was passed by 3 parties relatively early in the day - 2 going my way and 1 going the other way - but didn't see a soul after Invermoriston.
***
18 September 2012
Alltsigh to Lewiston
Start: 9:45am
Finish: 4:55pm
Distance: 10 miles
Weather: Mostly sunny, with rain at the very end
Oy. Where to begin? I trudged out of the hostel and back onto the GGW at 9:45 this morning, and the GGW quickly climbed up into the forest via a couple of switchbacks. The morning light hit Loch Ness very prettily, and I stopped to admire the view more than once.
But then, as ever, the trees closed in and the walking just got dull. Thankfully, the trail eventually climbed out of the trees and gave way to a significant portion of road-walking. This was okay, and I was actually able to slip back into my modified lunge and make good time, until one my blisters burst. Ow.
Then it was off the road and onto a pony track which took its sweet time wending its way down to Lewiston. This means I had a tantalizing view of the place, ages before I got there. Plus, I suppose whatever mechanism it was that made uphill walking the easiest part of the day for my feet, made downhill walking the hardest part. I was in absolute agony by the time I got to the hostel.
I have made a decision: Tomorrow, I am going to walk into Drumnadrochit and take a bus to Inverness. I've had enough. And I'm physically not going to be able to handle this last day. 19 miles is a long way to walk in a day, and it's a REALLY long way to walk on feet as abused as mine. 55 miles in 5 days is an accomplishment, and I'm going to take it and go.
*****************
I must interject that my mood improved immeasurably after writing that last journal entry. Let's just say that good things tend to happen to me in Lewiston. :)
So, the following morning I walked the last mile to Drumnadrochit. The Citylink bus to Inverness pulled up right as I got to the bus stop, so I took it as a sign that this was the right decision and hopped on. I spent the day in Inverness, reading a second-hand mystery novel and resting my feet, and got the train back to Edinburgh the next day. At some point, I would like to go back and do those last 18 miles, just so I can say I've walked the whole Great Glen Way. But as you can tell from the changing tone of my journal entries, I was completely Over It by the fifth day and ready to go home.
One final note: I never did eat that spaghetti I bought in Fort William. I carried it on my back all the way to Drumnadrochit, then by bus to Inverness and train to Edinburgh. It's sitting in the kitchen cupboard now. I'm thinking I might never eat it, but continue to carry it around on trips and see how many miles it accumulates. :)
Cheers, y'all.
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