Friday, January 27, 2012

Reading, reading, reading!

The Dissertation is officially on the radar.  We had our first briefing meeting about it on Monday.  General advice was to plan well, pool resources with other classmates when possible, and ultimately, "Change the world with your career, don't try to change it with your MSc dissertation."  Everyone is supposed to have nebulae forming by approximately the second week of February.

On the subject of school, I got an astonishingly high mark on the complete and utter nonsense that was my pro skills paper, so I'm on track to meet my goal of all B's or better.  I have also been exceptionally studious this week.  Only two papers left to read for next Tuesday.

In fact, I've been reading everything voraciously this week.  I finished Catching Babies today and I should be finishing A Clash of Kings in the next day or two.  George RR Martin is SUCH A GOOD WRITER.  I read over 100 pages of that book yesterday alone, mostly comprised of the Battle of Blackwater Rush.  Could not put it down when I got to that part.

I have no plans this weekend, but every weekend in February looks to be full.  I guess I'll take the opportunity to read, read, read some more!

Cheers, y'all.

Wednesday, January 25, 2012

Happy Burns Night!


"A Man's a Man for A' That" by Robert Burns:

Is there for honest Poverty
That hings his head, an' a' that;
The coward slave-we pass him by,
We dare be poor for a' that!
For a' that, an' a' that.
Our toils obscure an' a' that,
The rank is but the guinea's stamp,
The Man's the gowd for a' that.

What though on hamely fare we dine,
Wear hoddin grey, an' a that;
Gie fools their silks, and knaves their wine;
A Man's a Man for a' that:
For a' that, and a' that,
Their tinsel show, an' a' that;
The honest man, tho' e'er sae poor,
Is king o' men for a' that.

Ye see yon birkie, ca'd a lord,
Wha struts, an' stares, an' a' that;
Tho' hundreds worship at his word,
He's but a coof for a' that:
For a' that, an' a' that,
His ribband, star, an' a' that:
The man o' independent mind
He looks an' laughs at a' that.

Then let us pray that come it may,
(As come it will for a' that,)
That Sense and Worth, o'er a' the earth,
Shall bear the gree, an' a' that.
For a' that, an' a' that,
It's coming yet for a' that,
That Man to Man, the world o'er,
Shall brothers be for a' that.

Cheers, y'all.

Sunday, January 22, 2012

Glen Shee

*Go on a winter hike with crampons* - accomplished 21 January
*Visit Aberdeenshire* - accomplished 21 January

I got up well before dawn yesterday morning to go to the hillwalking club meeting place to get crampons fitted onto my rented B1 mountaineering boots along with about 18 other walkers.  Then 15 of us piled into a van, with the other four following in a car, and we drove two hours north of Edinburgh to Glen Shee, about midway between Blairgowrie and Braemar, just over the border in Aberdeenshire from Perth and Kinross.

Most of the countryside was snow-free or had only a thin scattering as we drove north, and there was some concern that we wouldn't have an opportunity to use any of the winter equipment, but as we drove into the glen, it became apparent we needn't have worried.  It was completely covered in the white stuff.

The parking lot at the ski center:





Swanning about in the parking lot:


After getting ice axes issued (1 each), we broke into groups.  I was in a group of six, and this is the hill we climbed:
We didn't go all the way up, mind you.  Probably a bit more than halfway.

At first the going was relatively easy, aside from the heavy snow (knee-deep and more in places).  We used the ice axes more for balance than anything, always keeping them in the uphill hand so we'd have an anchor if we fell in the snow.

Then the hill got much steeper and icier, so we got the crampons out.  Crampons are metal plates with ten or more spikes attached to the bottom, affixed to the bottoms of one's boots to provide traction on ice.  Crampons on, we started to climb again.

It was at this point that I looked around and realized exactly how steep the hillside was.  I don't know exactly what the gradient was, but it had to be 50% or more, as it appeared to be closer to the vertical than the horizontal.  Furthermore, it was encased in a sheet of ice.  No snow or rocks or vegetation to be seen.  And the only things keeping me attached to it were the metal spikes on the bottoms of my feet.

Pure.  Blind.  Panic.  I have never been so scared in my life, and I never want to be that scared again.

Claire, the walk leader, had to come back down the mountain and talk me out my terror and into trusting the crampons.  We undertook the rest of the climb up to our resting place in zig zags to alleviate some of the steepness.  I think it only took about two zigs and one zag, but I'm really not sure because the next thing I remember clearly is getting to the bit of broken fence on level-ish ground where we stopped for lunch and a demonstration on how to perform an ice axe arrest.

Looking down the mountain from where we stopped.  Look at the ski lift poles on the left for an idea of the steepness.

It was quite windy yesterday, but Claire's assistant, Maria, had brought a tent-like contraption that we sat in to eat lunch.  It kept the wind out and provided some warmth - enough for the gloves to come off, anyway.  I should mention at this point what I was wearing.  I had five layers on top: a thermal under-shirt, a long-sleeved T-shirt, a light jacket, a thick hoodie, and a heavy-duty raincoat.  On the bottom I had on thermal leggings and waterproof over-trousers.  I wore two pairs of socks, because the rented boots were slightly too big and I didn't want to get blisters.  However, two critical things I was NOT wearing for most of this hike were a hat and a scarf.  I didn't bring a scarf because I thought it would get in the way, and the hat I brought shrank the last time I washed it, so it had to go into my pack when it became clear that it wasn't going to stay on my head.  Also, the gloves I brought were only somewhat water-resistant, rather than waterproof, and by the time we stopped for lunch they were soaking wet and I had to borrow someone's spare pair for the rest of the day.

Lunch eaten, it was time to start descending.  I wanted nothing more than to hop on the ski lift next to us and ride it down, but it wasn't operating yesterday.  I had been dreading it, not daring to imagine what looking *down* this incredible slope would be like.  So Claire and I quickly came up with a strategy: I would descend walking *backwards.*  I planted my ice axe using both hands, and took four or five small steps backwards.  Planted my ice axe again, and took four or five more steps.  Planted, stepped backward.  Planted, stepped backward.  Always hunched over, leaning uphill.  I had both of my hoods up, and my entire world narrowed to the patch of ice between my axe and my feet.  I never looked uphill once, and when it was necessary to look downhill, I looked between my legs.  Occasionally I stepped sideways to avoid patches of rock (which crampons will NOT help with).  And in this manner I completed the vast majority of this descent walking backwards.

I only turned around and started walking the right way round when the ground was very clearly flattening out, by which point the ice had turned into snow and the parking lot of the ski center was looming large.  Snow presents its own challenges to crampons, though.  I kept getting buildups of snow stuck to the bottoms of my feet, which made getting my footing a challenge.  I fell over more than once, in drifts that were occasionally hip-deep.  But better in deep snow, near the bottom of a hill, than on ice hundreds of feet up.

My camera battery died after taking that last photo above, so unfortunately I don't have a picture of myself after the walk.  I got someone else to take one with their camera, so maybe I'll be able to track it down eventually.  But my hair was completely covered in snow, as were my borrowed gloves, the exposed parts of my hoodie, and my backpack.  I only had a few minutes in the ski center cafe to try to melt some of it off before we piled back into the vehicles for the drive back to Edinburgh.  I spent the drive back fantasizing about the hot shower I was going to take when I got home.

I think we started climbing at around 9:45 or 10:00 yesterday morning, and started driving back at 3:30 in the afternoon, so I reckon this climb was about 5 hours start to finish, maybe a bit more.  I felt a huge sense of accomplishment after getting off that hill, and also relief.  Climbing Ben Vane was more of a physical challenge than this climb, but this one was a far bigger mental challenge.  I don't think I was ever more terrified in my life than in that moment when I realized how steep that hill was.  I'm glad I was able to get through it, but I don't think I'll be going on any more winter hikes.  Today, my calves hurt like no tomorrow, my lower back and shoulders are stiff, and the balls of my hands hurt from my death grip on the ice axe.  But I've also got a great sense of accomplishment.

Cheers, y'all.

Friday, January 20, 2012

Getting ready for Glen Shee.

Second sport psych tutorial today!  This time it was second-year phys ed majors, and they were much more lively than the freshers yesterday.  Asked pertinent questions about their assignment for next time, etc.  They were still in and out in ten minutes, but when they come back in two weeks, the real work will begin!

I've got most of my marks from fall term back.  I finished research methods with the equivalent of an A, planning with a very high B, and stress with a low B.  I'm still waiting on my pro skills marks, which will probably be the lowest.  Can't do anything about that at this point, though.

Hillwalking in Glen Shee tomorrow is a go!  I'm a little concerned about my left ankle because I managed to roll it this morning walking to the bus stop, but my rented mountaineering boots have really good ankle support so I don't think it'll be too much of a problem.  Gonna lay out my clothes for tomorrow, get lunch and snacks packed, and make it an early night, as I have to be at the meeting point at 7am tomorrow to get crampons fitted.  Daylight is slowly returning, but sunrise tomorrow still isn't until 8:27am.  Ugh.

Cheers, y'all.

Thursday, January 19, 2012

Blank stares.

Taught my first sport psych tutorial today.  As the kids have not actually had their first lecture for this class yet, it was brief.  As in 10 minutes, if that.  It's all freshmen, and only 16 of the 25 kids we were expecting showed up.  In retrospect, we could have made the class longer by actually taking attendance instead of just passing around the roll sheet, or maybe even going around the room and having people introduce themselves.  This also might have alleviated some of the blank staring that was going on.  But there's another tutorial tomorrow morning, so new things can be tried then!

It snowed this afternoon.  I think this was the first really heavy-ish snow Edinburgh's gotten this winter.

Cheers, y'all!

Wednesday, January 18, 2012

Back to school!

Lectures started back up this week.  On Monday I did a presentation, which I pretty much threw together at the last minute in an astonishing display of procrastination the likes of which I have not experienced since undergrad, and which will be the final graded item for my professional skills class.  Oddly enough, we still have four more weeks of pro skills lectures which are probably going to be a waste of time.  On the 30th for example, I'm considering skipping out in favor of Bruce Hornsby in Glasgow. 

On Tuesday, I had the first lectures for my two main classes this term, Team Dynamics and Peak Performance.  I wasn't sure what to expect for team dynamics, as the lecturer for that class, Alan, has established himself as a bit of an asshole.  But I (and everyone else) was pleasantly surprised when Alan showed up in a good mood and we spent the first half of class playing a bargaining game called "Win As Much As You Can," in which we all proved ourselves to be untrustworthy bastards.  This class is going to be cool.  I frankly had low expectations for peak performance, as it's being taught by Guido, the same guy (very ineffectively) teaching us pro skills, but I think it's going to be cool too, and definitely relevant to my interests as a musician.  Peak performance is his area of expertise, and it shows.  I'm especially looking forward to learning about flow, which is a new concept to me.

This morning the five of us who are going to be TA-ing the first year sport psych class had a meeting about it with the prof (who just happens to be Guido, again) to learn what we're going to be doing and to divvy up the tutorials.  We decided to teach in pairs, at least for the first several weeks.  I'll be teaching every Friday morning from 10-11, and every other Thursday afternoon from 4-5.  The first tutorial is tomorrow, so we'll see how it goes!

I'm signed up to go hillwalking in Glen Shee on Saturday.  I SWEAR I WILL ACTUALLY GO THIS TIME, barring Tiso giving away or misplacing the mountaineering boots I've reserved for Saturday, which is a possibility because the guy who reserved them for me didn't seem to be completely on top of things.  I've been promised that the focus will be on learning to use crampons and ice axes, rather than getting up hills, so this should be relatively low-stress.  *Famous last words*

Cheers, y'all.

Sunday, January 15, 2012

Cookery and books.

My omelette pan got its first use in Scotland today.  I attempted to make an omelette with freshly grated cheddar cheese and Scottish smoked salmon.  What I ended up with was somewhere between a burrito and scrambled eggs, but it was edible nevertheless!  (Seriously you guys, Scottish salmon is better than sex.)  And then I cooked ravioli for dinner. 

Starting tomorrow, I'm going to try to go back to my 50-quid-a-week rule, because I have been hemorrhaging money lately.  Cooking more is an integral part of this, because one thing I've been spending far too much money on is food.  I'm also forbidding myself from buying books for a while, but I have several stockpiled at the moment so this shouldn't be too much of a problem.

Currently reading:
A Clash of Kings by George RR Martin - Book 2 in the Song of Ice and Fire series.
Catching Babies by Sheena Byrom - An informative, if not particularly gripping memoir of an English midwife.
The Courtesan's Lover by Gabriella Kimm - Historical fiction set in 16th-century Naples.  I'm only a little ways into it, but it already feels like the plot is trying to spread way too thin.  Still, I'll give it the benefit of the doubt and keep going.
The Maid by Kimberly Cutter - A novel about Joan of Arc.  Love the historical accuracy, but not so much the atmosphere of doom and gloom (although I suppose it's appropriate, given the subject matter).  The miniseries-fangirl in me is really eager to see where some of the characterization goes...
Scottish Ghosts by Dane Love - A compendium of many of the supposedly-haunted locations in Scotland, with summaries of the stories behind each.  It's quite interesting, but slow going because I'm scared to read it at night!

Bought but not yet started:
Lady of the English by Elizabeth Chadwick - This is Chadwick's latest novel, about Empress Matilda and Adeliza of Louvain.  I love her other novels and am excited to start this one.
Post Captain by Patrick O'Brian - Book 2 of the Aubrey/Maturin series.  I finished Book 1 (Master and Commander) immediately before flying back to the States for Christmas - in fact that's how I passed the time when I decided not to go to bed prior to my 3:45am departure for the airport.
Doctor Zhivago by Boris Pasternak - I haven't read any classics in a while, and I'm in the mood for one again.  I've already watched the miniseries starring Hans Matheson and Keira Knightley, so I'll be interested to see how closely it follows the book.
Waverley by Sir Walter Scott - Also to feed my classics quota, and because I realized that I haven't actually read any fiction/literature about Scotland in quite some time.
A Storm of Swords by George RR Martin - Book 3, part 1 of A Song of Ice and Fire, to be begun when I finish Book 2.

Cheers, y'all.

Saturday, January 14, 2012

Ballet, cathedrals, and Irn-Bru.

*See a ballet* - Accomplished 13 January, 2012.


I saw the Scottish Ballet perform Sleeping Beauty at the Festival Theatre last night with my flatmate Madina.  I hadn't seen a ballet since the Carolina Ballet's annual Christmas performance of The Nutcracker at UNC approximately three years ago, so this was a novel experience!  The dancing and music were top-notch of course, but the highlight for me was the costumes.  This production has the initial action taking place in the 1830s and 1840s, with the "100 years later" bit in 1946, and the way the costume designers incorporated fashions from those times was genius.

Yesterday was a brilliantly beautiful day, and I spent it walking around Edinburgh's Old Town, playing tourist.  Another "first" I accomplished was going inside St. Giles Cathedral for the first time:






And I caught an absolutely brilliant sunset from North Bridge:


***

I have been very productive today.  I cleaned the downstairs kitchen, paying special attention to the stove-top, which was filthy.  Tomas and Nadia moved out about a week ago, taking their slovenly cooking habits with them, so the kitchen ought to stay clean now.  I also did a big grocery shopping trip, and my laundry is currently in the washer.  Another first I accomplished today: I am currently drinking my first Irn-Bru.  Irn-Bru is a hugely popular soft drink here in Scotland.  Upon my first taste today, I think it tastes like carbonated cough medicine, but to each their own!

Cheers, y'all.

Thursday, January 12, 2012

T-minus one year.

My student visa expires exactly one year from today.

I hereby resolve to do and experience as many new and amazing things as possible within the next year, because there's no guarantee that I'm going to be able to stay in Scotland for any longer.  And then there's the Mayan apocalypse, too!

Seriously though, I want to continue making my time here count.  I think I've done a pretty good job so far, what with climbing Ben Vane, biking across Tiree, and other major and minor adventures that have happened.  But I want to make sure I keep it up!  The loftiest goal of all would be to have a uniquely interesting thing to report to this blog every day over the next 365 (or 366, this being a leap year), but I know that that's probably not realistic.  But it's one I can strive for, at least!

EDIT: Here is the official Mayan Apocalypse/Student Visa Expiration Bucket List:

Places to Go:
Mull, Iona, and Staffa.
Islay and Jura.
The Uists.
Shetland.
Aberdeen/anywhere north of Fife and east of the A9. This is the only part of the Scottish mainland I have never visited.
Wales.
Cornwall. I've already been to John o'Groats, but I'd like to be able to say I've been to Land's End, too!

Things to Do:
Go on a winter hike with crampons.
Visit The Real Mary King's Close.
Visit the National Museum of Scotland.
Jump into Loch Carron.
Walk the Water of Leith walkway.
Walk the Great Glen Way.
See a ballet.
See an orchestra concert.
Read all ten books currently sitting on my bedside table.
Get my MSc.

People to See:
Becca, Kat, and Chaz in Yorkshire.
Brian, Carol, Craig, and Kathryn in Nottinghamshire.
Shaina when she's in the Netherlands in February.
Tracey when she comes to visit me.
Sima. Either I will go to Russia or she will come here.
Musical acts I'm fond of, if and when they visit Scotland or northern England.

This will probably get added to as I think of more things, and I'll be checking things off as I complete them, preferably with photographic documentation that they've been done now that I have a camera again!

Cheers, y'all.

Tuesday, January 10, 2012

Doon tae London toon.

I took a spontaneous trip to London over the weekend!  This was approximately my fifth visit to London within my lifetime, but the first time I've gone down there since moving to Edinburgh.  I did a free walking tour which covered the usual sights (Buckingham Palace, 10 Downing Street, Green Park, Big Ben, the Houses of Parliament, Westminster Abbey, etc), saw Les Miserables (also for the fifth time in my lifetime), went to Foyles and bought lots of books, and went to evensong at Westminster Abbey.  I also did the train journey to London and back in daylight for the first time ever.  While not one of the most scenic train journeys on earth, it's picturesque enough, running along the Scottish coast and through the English countryside.

Back to the books soon.  I have to do a presentation on Monday, which I haven't started yet.  Although I have picked my topic - like most of my peers, I'm just going to do it on the topic I wrote my planning paper on.

A minor milestone today: Sunset is now after 4pm again!  Hooray!

Cheers, y'all.

Wednesday, January 4, 2012

Happy New Year!

Happy 2012!  This entry will be heavy on the pictures and light on the words.

I spent the new year in Stromeferry, with eleven other backpackers and several local Scots.  Altogether, we were two Americans (me and Dianna), three Germans (Nic, Issy, and Yumi), three Aussies (Hester, Mitch, and Lyndal), a Kiwi (Jared), an Englishwoman (Kat), a South African (Chaz), and a girl from Campbeltown (Jane).  Good old Danny was our driver.

We started in Edinburgh on the 30th and drove to the Wallace Monument in Stirling:
Then we traveled northwest, stopping in Callander for lunch.  As we entered the western highlands, it began to snow.


By the time we stopped in Tyndrum for a toilet break, it was really coming down hard.

But we pressed on.

Rannoch Moor:

Buachaille Etive Mor.  We pulled over to get a pic of it, which I was happy about because I've been wanting to get a pic of this mountain without the camera glare in it.  But it turns out, there was too much fog and snow.  Ah well.

Eventually we arrived at Glen Coe, which was pretty much our final stop in daylight.





We got stuff to make lasagna in Fort William, drove to Spean Bridge to see the Commando Memorial which was luckily lit up, and then went up to Stromeferry in Wester Ross, our home for three nights.

***

We spent New Years Eve on Skye.

Highlights included the Faerie Stream of Eternal Youth,

the Quiraing,

Kilt Rock and the selkie falls,

and the Old Man of Storr.

We also went to a faerie glen, which was the most stunning thing I have seen in a long time.  This was my fifth trip to Skye, but the first time I had ever been there.  It's not on tourist maps (or many maps at all, for that matter) because the locals don't like tourists coming there, and the WIS folks are very, very selective about which groups they take there.  I didn't take any photos of it because I felt like it would be disrespectful, and I also won't describe where exactly on Skye it is.  But it was beautiful and mystical.

And muddy.  Coming down a hill on my way back to the bus, I slipped on a muddy patch, fell flat on my back, and then slid at least 30-40 feet down the hill, as if I were on ice.  Catching hold of a passing clump of grass is the only thing that stopped me.  I was luckily unhurt (aside from some whiplash and possibly a bruised sternum, neither of which I felt until the next day), but the back of my raincoat and trousers were absolutely covered in mud.  Luckily I was wearing my synthetics that day!

Then we went back to the house in Stromeferry and had a massive party.  Ewan and Kath, who live at/run the place/run WIS, had many mates over, as well as many random people, such as a band they picked up at the next train station.  I had my first taste of Buckfast, which is labeled as a "tonic wine" but is has the effect of bottled Jagerbombs.  There was a bonfire and fireworks and music and general merriment, and everyone went around hugging and kissing everyone else at midnight.  Several of us had planned to jump into Loch Carron at midnight, but ultimately chickened out.  I stayed up long enough to celebrate NC new years at 5am, and then went to bed.  The effect of the Buckfast was such that I wasn't even tired at 5am; I was just bored because the party was winding down!

***

On New Years Day, we all lazed around the hostel and recovered from the night before.

Except for the part where we all went clay pigeon shooting.
Yes folks, that is me firing a shotgun.

I didn't hit anything, but I think that's fair enough considering I had never held a gun before!

But mostly we chilled:

There were quite a few talented singers on this trip, and we all sat around the fire singing "Little Lion Man" by Mumford and Sons in perfect harmony.  We also played a massive game of Cranium before our final dinner together: chicken, mashed tatties, peas, carrots, and apple crumble for dessert, cooked for us by Ewan and Kath.

***

January 2nd, we began our trip back to Edinburgh via Inverness late, because a lot of people slept in (Danny went to bed at dinnertime the night before without giving us a wake-up time) and because Danny couldn't find the keys.  But eventually we got on our way through Glen Shiel:





We stopped briefly at Loch Ness for some Nessie-spotting,





and even more briefly at Culloden, because the snow was coming down HARD by the time we got there.

We spent the rest of the day on a very congested A9, inching our way down to Edinburgh.  We saw deer leaving Culloden and also in the Cairngorms, and kept ourselves amused playing truth or dare, passing around some terrible whisky and coke, and wondering whether we'd have to pile out of the van at some point to create yellow snow ("Can't we pull off at a toilet somewhere nearby?"  "Look around us!  There is NOTHING nearby!!")  Thankfully we made it to Pitlochry before anyone wet themselves.  We did have to miss out on the Hermitage Forest because some people needed to be back in Edinburgh in time to catch trains, so I waved to it as we went by and called out that I hoped it was enjoying my old camera.

Despite the traffic delays, we made into Edinburgh at 6:20pm and had a final night out at the pub.

This and the first WIS tour I ever did were the two best I've done, without a doubt.  It really depends on the chemistry of the group, and it was superb on this trip.  This is the first trip around Scotland I've ever done where I took a comparable number of photos of landscapes and people, whereas normally it's 90% landscape, 10% people, if that.  It was an excellent trip, and the best and most memorable new years in many years.  Maybe in my entire life!

Cheers, y'all.

Outer Hebrides and the Hebridean Way

Monday 3 June 2019 Long day of travel - with a hangover - yesterday.  Train from Edinburgh to Glasgow (which was late of course), then a l...