The Rob Roy Way

Friday 10 May 2019

Drymen to Aberfoyle: "Piu mosso"
Distance: 11 miles
Start: 8:50am
Finish: 1:45pm
Weather: Partly cloudy in the morning, drizzly in the afternoon

On to the second long-distance path of the trip!  I caught a commuter train from Glasgow to Alexandria this morning, and then a bus from Alexandria to Drymen.  As far as I know there is no monolith or anything to mark the beginning/end of the Rob Roy Way in Drymen - just a National Cycle Route signpost with a Rob Roy Way blaze on it.  I got someone to take my photo and cracked on.

There was bumper-to-bumper foot traffic on the road north out of Drymen.  Most of the other walkers were making their way back to the West Highland Way, and after the intersection of the two trails I had the path almost to myself, except for a Scottish couple who I leapfrogged with for most of the morning.

I recalled this being a fairly nondescript day, and my recollection was correct.  The path is entirely on minor roads and forestry tracks today, which are uncomfortable underfoot, and the views are okay but nothing to write home about.  Still, I lounged by Corrie Aqueduct (which appeared to be leaking?) at lunchtime until a cloud went in front of the sun and I realized I'd better press on if I didn't want to get rained on.  I did get rained on, just a little bit.  But I still got to Kirkton early enough to have a wander around the cemetery, killing some time until I could check in at the Forth Inn in Aberfoyle.

I'm congratulating myself on my weight loss once again!  This day was much easier than it was when I did the Rob Roy Way four years ago.  My body is suffering a little bit, though.  My knees are complaining again, and when I undressed to have a bath I discovered that I had picked up a tick!  It must have attached itself to my leg when I stepped off the path to answer nature's call, because that's the only time my legs were uncovered all day.  I was impressed with how I handled it: I calmly got the tweezers out of the small first aid kit I've been carrying all trip, got the tick to detach on the fifth or sixth try, and only freaked out about it afterward!

Song of the day: "Waly Waly" - Scottish traditional

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Saturday 11 May 2019

Aberfoyle to Callander: "I guess this is the right way?
Distance: 9.5 miles
Start: 10:20am
Finish: 3:45pm
Weather: Sunny

I got a purposely late start this morning, because I'd told my Airbnb host in Callander that I wouldn't be there until sometime after 5pm.  The Forth Inn doesn't start serving breakfast until 9am anyway, which I think is absurdly late.

Last night's dinner of chips with curry sauce was talking back in a BIG way, so I popped into a pharmacy for some ranitidine on my way out of town and then tried to re-find the trail.  This section of the Rob Roy Way suffers from an egregious lack of waymarking, and the waymarkers that do exist are vague.  The waymarker that I assume is supposed to point up the hill to Dounans Camp appears to point into someone's back garden instead.  But after a little bit of head-scratching and map-consulting, I was on my way.

It was a GORGEOUS day today.  Sunny and almost the perfect temperature.  It took me five and a half hours to travel a little over nine miles today, not because of any difficulty with the terrain, but because I kept stopping to admire the view!  I climbed up the shoulder of the Menteith Hills and crossed a sheep pasture, stopping by a burn at the far end to have a snack and admire the view some more.  I was dislodged from my spot by a large group of kids with their chaperones, presumably out for the day, and continued past a lochan jumping with fish.  Then I wended and descended my way along Loch Venachar, marveling at the views across to Ben Ledi and (I think) the Loch Earn Munros beyond.  When I got to the lochside I stopped for a good long while at one of the picnic areas.  I was on pace to get to Callander early despite my late departure from Aberfoyle, so I decided I'd rather kill time looking at the pretty loch than loitering around Callander.

Eventually I bestirred myself, gave my boots a quick wash in the loch, and pushed on.  There were lots of people out enjoying the fine day: playing by the loch, barbecuing, etc.  Someone's dog growled at me, which was disconcerting.

I walked into Callander at 3:45pm and happened to meet my Airbnb host on the street.  He let me in early - what a gent.

Song of the day: "Sultans of Swing" by Dire Straits

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Sunday 12 May 2019

Callander to Strathyre: "Happiness is..."
Distance: 9 miles
Start: 9:30am
Finish: 2:15pm
Weather: Sunny

The day dawned almost cloudless.  I found a place on Callander's high street that was open for breakfast, and finished my meal just as a tour bus disgorged its passengers onto the premises.

I got a photo of Ben Ledi from the bridge over the River Teith and then began the day's walk.  This was my favorite day when I did the Rob Roy Way in 2015, and it was every bit as enjoyable as I remembered.  More so, because it was sunny and mild today instead of sleeting!  I followed the riverside track out of Callander and toward Ben Ledi, and for a mad moment as I approached the foot of the hill I considered climbing it.  I cam to my senses and decided against it (not with the heavy rucksack), but clearly lots of other people had decided that this was a day to be up a hill - the parking lot was absolutely slammed full.

I stopped briefly at the forest cafe for a scone, an elderflower soda, and a toilet break, and then continued on.  As I drew alongside Loch Lubnaig, I thought how nice it would be to find a nice spot by the lochside and just relax for a while.  Just then, I spotted a little side trail going down to the shore.  Don't mind if I do!  I took my boots off for a toe-dip in the loch (cold!) and then just basked like a lizard in the sun for nearly an hour.  It was barely noon, I was already halfway to Strathyre, and it was just too nice a day to be in a hurry.

After a while the wind picked up and it got slightly chilly by the lochside, so I took that as a sign to move on.  The path climbed higher, affording even better views, and I just ambled along with the goofiest smile on my face.  I was still smiling when I reached Strathyre, despite the fact that I'd seen no fewer than four signs saying "Strathyre - 1 mile" over the preceding two miles or so.

Song of the day: 4th movement from The Ninth Symphony by Ludwig van Beethoven

***

Monday 13 May 2019

Strathyre to Killin: "Butterflies"
Distance: 13 miles
Start: 9:20am
Finish: 3:00pm
Weather: Sunny and warm

I got a later start than I intended this morning.  First my bed was sooo comfortable that I didn't want to get up, so I was later than I intended going down to breakfast.  Then the breakfast craic with the hosts and the other guests was good, so I lingered a while.  I highly recommend Airlie House B&B to anyone passing through Strathyre - easily in my top 3 favorite accommodations of this trip.

I had a bit of an "oops" leaving Strathyre.  I set off on the track running along the west side of the road, wondering where on earth the right-hand turn that was supposed to take me up into the trees was.  I finally pulled the map out and discovered that I'd missed the turn some way back, but also that this track would eventually rejoin the Rob Roy Way, so no serious harm done in the end.

The path rambled on to Lochearnhead, zigzagging up to meet the disused railway line through Glen Ogle.  It was another warm, sunny day, and the views were lovely.  I found a nice flat boulder a little short of Glen Ogle Viaduct to sit and eat my lunch on, my encounter with the tick having made me gun-shy about venturing into long grass.  Then I continued on past a lochan to the Glen Ogle Snack Van.  The van was open for business, but as I'd only just eaten lunch, I settled for topping up my water and a Snickers bar.  Then I just had the final four miles through the forest before reaching Killin.  The forest seemed to go on for a long time, but I put my MP3 player on and just concentrated on blasting out the miles until I got to the Falls of Dochart.

I saw lots of cyclists today but nary another walker.

Song of the day: 3rd movement from Spring by Antonio Vivaldi

***

Tuesday 14 May 2019

Killin to Ardtalnaig: "We might as well be on Mars!"
Distance: 12 miles
Start: 9:55am
Finish: 4:25pm
Weather: Sunny and hot

The climb out of Killin was as I remembered it: long and sweaty.  The sun beat down relentlessly all day.  Forestry land is not my favorite landscape to walk through, but I found myself looking forward to getting into the cool shade of every pine plantation I saw today.  I had lots of company today: the Scottish couple I had met on the first day, plus an Australian couple and a French couple, leaving me as the lone seventh wheel.

Through the gate and across undulating moorland to the hydro dam.  I stopped at the dam to drink water and squint at my map, because I thought I might like to try and bag Creag Gharbh, a Graham which the Rob Roy Way passes right by, today.  Onward to the hairpin turn in the path that would bring me closest to the summit, and I saw my mistake: the slope was far too steep to ascend from this direction.  Looking back toward the dam I could see the line I should have taken, but I didn't particularly want to double back, so Creag Gharbh will remain unbagged for the time being.  Oh well.

A gentle descent down to the pipeline, then across the bog to Ardeonaig on Loch Tay.  The fine weather of the last four days has gone a long way toward drying up the bog, and it was much easier going than the last time I came this way.  Then relentless tarmac to Ardtalnaig.  I was a tired, sunburned, and thirsty walker toiling up the South Loch Tay road.  Passing motorists seemed to be sympathetic - they all seemed to wait for me to give the little "I'm okay" wave before continuing on their way.

Finally to Holly Cottage and my home for the night: a camping pod in the back garden, complete with kitchenette, wet room, and TV.  Early to bed tonight.

Song of the day: "New Wild West" by Jewel

***

Wednesday 15 May 2019

Ardtalnaig to Aberfeldy: "Pine forests are nature's air conditioners."
Distance: 15 miles
Start: 8:30am
Finish: 5:00pm
Weather: Sunny and warm

My arms got quite sunburned yesterday, so I tried to get an early start this morning so that I could walk in long sleeves for as long as possible.  The day began with four or five miles of tarmac pounding to Acharn.  Then a right-hand turn to leave the road and climb up to the Falls of Acharn.  This was where I stopped last time, so I was quite pleased to be pushing on, and the view of the falls was the reward.

The French couple and the Scottish couple caught up with me at the Falls of Acharn (the Australian couple were doing the Amulree loop today so I didn't see them again), which was handy because the French couple and I were mystified about which direction to take from the falls to get to the Queen's Drive.  Luckily the Scottish couple knew, having done the trail before.  The next few miles were on a pleasant, grassy path that contoured around the hillside and gave great views of Kenmore down below.  Then the path went through forestry land for a bit.  I was actually relieved to see the pine plantations, because I've discovered on this trail that pine forests are natural air conditioners: the trees actually seem to exhale cold air.  I experienced a new walking surface: steamrolled rocks.  It looked like the path was maybe waiting to be paved with tarmac - I certainly hope not.

For a while I'd been following signposts that said "Path to Aberfeldy X miles."  They, combined with the views of Aberfeldy drawing ever closer, got my hopes up that the end of the day was near.  These hopes were summarily dashed when I saw one of these signposts pointing one way and a Rob Roy Way marker pointing another.  The trail, which had been descending toward Aberfeldy for a while, abruptly turned away from Aberfeldy and began ascending again, which was incredibly frustrating.  I shortly found out why.  The Rob Roy Way takes a circuitous route into Aberfeldy in order to go through a gorge called the Birks of Aberfeldy.  Then it takes a circuitous route through the Birks.  The Birks of Aberfeldy are admittedly very pretty, and the Falls of Moness might actually be more impressive than the Falls of Acharn.  But I spent the whole walk through the Birks thinking "This is nice.  I wish I were less tired, less hungry, less hot, and less in pain, so I could enjoy it more."

I finally popped out into the Aberfeldy town center and walked up and down the street my Airbnb was on, trying to find it.  Two local women finally took pity on my and pointed it out.  I was in near-hysterics from the length and heat of the day when I came through the door, but my hostess was very kind.

Song of the day: "Future Man" by Strength in Numbers

***

Thursday 16 May 2019

Aberfeldy to Pitlochry: "Bluebell fields and border collies"
Distance: 9 miles
Start: 8:20am
Finish: 1:40pm
Weather: Sunny

Last day, let's go let's go!  I began following the road east out of Aberfeldy, and stopped about ten minutes into the day's walk to get a haggis roll for breakfast.  Suitably fueled, I continued onward, bearing left onto a footpath following the River Tay.

I followed the River Tay all the way to Grandtully, and it was my favorite part of the day.  The morning was cool, the path was level and comfortable underfoot, and the river was picturesque.  The only thing that momentarily disturbed my groove was a border collie, which came tearing around a corner and toward me, tail wagging, tongue lolling, and leash trailing.  It hugged me and gave me an exuberant kiss-attack.  At length I was able to pry it off me and herd it ahead of me, back in the direction it came from and where its owners presumably were.  Its owners were indeed at the far end of a field a little further along, calling for it.

I had intended to stop for a break in Grandtully.  However, I arrived there at the same time as a big Rolls-Royce convention, and the only place that was open for food at the time was quickly overwhelmed.  Annoyed, and not wanting to wait an hour for the only other eatery in town to open at noon, I walked on.

I crossed the river and began the long climb out of the Tay valley.  It is an unrelenting climb along a golf course and through a sprawling gorse thicket, but the view from the top is amazing.  A brief break at the top for water, and then I began the gentler descent down to the River Tummel.  Forest track gave way to dirt road, dusty from six days of relentless sunshine.  A dash across the A9, over the pedestrian bridge across the River Tummel, and I was on the outskirts of Pitlochry.  All that was left was a quick walk through the woods to the town center, and to the war memorial which marks the end of the Rob Roy Way.

And so I have finished it!  I love this trail, especially the section between Aberfoyle and Killin.  And that's all I have to say about that.  :)

Song of the day: "Heartlines" by Florence + the Machine