Wednesday 1 May 2019
Greenhead to Steel Rigg: "If your nerve deny you, go above your nerve."
Distance: 7 miles
Start: 8:15am
Finish: 1:05pm
Weather: Cloudy, cool, and damp
I was simultaneously nervous and excited for this day. This is the day that defeated me last time, so it was time to find out of I could do it.
I took the correct turn at Thirlwall Castle and slogged up the hill to Walltown. Then it was up and onto Walltown Crags. Walltown Crags are a bit of a "Choose Your Own Adventure" zone. The waymarkers and visible path both peter out and you're left to find your own line across. But really, as long as you keep the wall/fence/crag edge on one side, you can't go too far wrong. I got to the spot where I turned around last time and kept going. Victory.
After Walltown Crags, the path goes over open farmland for a bit until Cawfields Quarry. Then it's on to Winshields Crags. In a way, Winshields is easier than Walltown because there's a visible path over most of it. In other ways it's harder, because the climbs are steeper. I'm grateful to be doing this walk eastbound, because I did some climbs today that would have been difficult to descend. In related news, I reached the highest point on the Hadrian's Wall path today! It's on Winshields Crags and is marked by a trig point.
Near the end of the day the fine mist that had been falling for most of the morning cleared, and I took the opportunity to lounge against the wall for a bit. A walker doing the Pennine Way (which runs concurrently with Hadrian's Wall for nine miles, from Greenhead to just before Housesteads) caught up with me and we talked about the Romans, the countryside, and long walks in general. He continued on his way, and in good time I heaved myself up and continued on to Steel Rigg. I have officially conquered the day that conquered me, and it feels good!
Song of the day: "Diamonds on the Soles of Her Shoes" by Paul Simon
***
Thursday 2 May 2019
Steel Rigg to Carraw: "It's a bit precipitous!"
Distance: 8 miles
Start: 8:35am
Finish: 1:35pm
Weather: Mostly cloudy and moderately windy
My epic hamburger dinner at the Twice Brewed Inn last night was disrupted by an "I'd like to speak to the manager"-type guest. I ate breakfast early to avoid encountering him again and was back up on the path by half past eight.
My spirits were good at first. The views of Reel Crags were literally breathtaking and the weather, though cloudy, was holding. But I quickly discovered that Reel Crags contain the steepest climbs and drops of the entire trail. Looking at the map, I had expected to reach Sycamore Gap pretty much immediately after leaving Steel Rigg, but it felt like it took AGES to get there.
Sycamore Gap frankly gave me the creeps. The tree looks like it doesn't belong there and shouldn't be there. The leaves are a different shade of green from any of the other trees or grass in the area. And the way it's framed by two steep cliffs just gives it an otherworldly, vaguely malevolent aura. I could also hear voices on the wind - probably just the young couple walking their dog who had passed me earlier...still, mindful that Beltane had only just passed, I thought it prudent to hurry on my way, thinking "Nope, I've read this book series."
Except I couldn't exactly "hurry." The steep crags made for very slow going. I eventually reached Housesteads and stopped briefly for a snack, then continued up onto Sewingshields Crags. I just couldn't seem to get any momentum going today and my slow pace continued. And the vaguely unsettled feeling that had taken hold at Sycamore Gap was compounded by the fact that I didn't see a soul between Housesteads and Sewingshields Wood.
At the end of Sewingshields Wood, things finally began to look up. I left the crags behind and the terrain became mercifully level. I celebrated by eating my lunch next to Milecastle 34. Four Americans (two couples) came walking westbound and we had a bit of a natter. Body re-energized and spirits bolstered, I continued eastward. I had been high above the B6318 road for most of the day, but the final stretch into Carraw shadowed the road behind a stone fence.
I've been having the time of my life on Hadrian's Wall up until today, and I can't exactly put my finger on why my spirits were lower today.
Difficult terrain maybe, but then yesterday's terrain was difficult too and it didn't bother me. I think a lot of it has to do with the realization that I was overcautious when planning this trip. This was my fifth day walking Hadrian's Wall and I'm getting impatient to be done with it, especially now that the most scenic bit is behind me. But I've still got three and a half more days of it ahead of me, and not much to be done about it now. All I can do is take the lesson about underestimating my own abilities and move forward.
Song of the day: "Arrietty's Song by Cecile Corbel
***
Friday 3 May 2019
Carraw to Portgate - "Don't get too self-congratulatory yet!"
Distance: 10 miles
Start: 9:00am
Finish: 2:30pm
Weather: Variably cloudy
I slept like the dead at my B&B last night and was back walking at 9 this morning. Today the trail mostly followed the B6318 across pastureland and moorland. The area right around Chollerford was a trial, because the trail goes onto tarmac for a good long while there, as well as descending into the town and then re-ascending out of it. There was much grumbling as I toiled uphill.
But other than that, today's walking suited me well. I've found that I'm happiest when scooting along level, open moorland, with a big sky above me and views all around. I crossed the River Tyne today and passed a few more intact portions of the wall, but I suspect those are going to get fewer and farther between over the next couple of days as I approach Newcastle.
I passed a couple of large groups walking westbound near Chollerford, but didn't encounter another eastbound walker all day.
Song of the day: "Domine Jesu" from Requiem by Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart
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