Inverness and the Great Glen Way

Saturday 25 May 2019

This trip has been an exercise in listening to my instincts.  Case in point: I had originally booked a hostel dorm as my accommodation in Inverness, against my better judgment.  While I was in Newcastle, I came to my senses (with the help of the loud stag party down the hall), cancelled the hostel, and booked an Airbnb instead.  The Airbnb I found was a self-catering cottage I would have to myself.  Wonderful.

Within an hour or two of booking it, the owner messaged me and said that the cottage was no longer available and was going to be unlisted, but she had an apartment she could offer me instead, and would I like pictures?  Okay yes, the pictures look fine, I'll take the apartment instead.

Then things started getting interesting.  "I may be able to get someone to meet you because I'm in Australia at the moment."  This is the point at which I should have cancelled the booking and walked away.  All my instincts told me to.  Because "may"?  What do you mean "may"?

About a week ago, I got another message.  "My sister is going to meet you to give you access to the flat, here is her number."  I texted the sister (who I will just refer to as "Sister" from now on), no answer.  I'm convinced I'm going to rock up in Inverness and not have accommodation at this point, but I'm not going to get my money back if I cancel at this late stage, so I need to do my due diligence and see this through.  I messaged the owner to say it's been two days and Sister hasn't answered me, do I have the right number?  Yes, that's the right number.  So I called and left a voicemail.  FINALLY Sister got back to me.  She even offered to meet me at the train station.  Looks like I'm actually going to have somewhere to stay after all!

Sister meets me as promised, and even takes me to Tesco so I can get groceries.  We get to the flat, and it's a bit small but it'll do fine for me for three nights.  Only THEN do I find out there's no WiFi.  I have people I'm going to need to be in touch with over the next few days, so this is something of a problem.  Also the TV remote is MIA.  So no internet AND no TV.  Ugghhh.  And I'm pretty sure I saw black mold in the hallway.

Then I went to take a shower, and there was no hot water.  Look, I can live without WiFi and TV for three days, but I cannot live without hot water.  I called Sister, and she sent her husband over.  Thankfully, he not only fixed the hot water, he brought a replacement TV with him!  So all was not lost in the end.

***

Monday 27 May 2019

Drumnadrochit to Inverness: "Unfinished Business"
Distance: 18 miles
Start: 9:20am
Finish: 6:20pm
Weather: Alternating sun and rain

I've chickened out on this final day of the Great Glen Way twice, but I was determined to do it on this trip.  I got the 8:45am bus to Drumnadrochit and started walking at 9:20am

The first bit of this day follows the footway of the A82 out of Drumnadrochit - not an inspiring start.  But things rapidly improved as the trail turned left and began climbing away from the road.  The climb up to Abriachan is lengthy, but once you get to the top and the path levels out, this final day of the Great Glen Way is a DELIGHT.  The Great Glen Way suffers a bit from Green Tunnel Syndrome and an unchanging view for the first 55 miles, but on this day it moves away from Loch Ness and strikes out cross-country.  I was enjoying the novelty and the sunshine, but dark clouds loomed to the north.  I had brought my raincoat but not my waterproof overtrousers, so OF COURSE the sky opened and the coldest, heaviest rain I've had all trip fell, soaking through my scrub bottoms in short order.  There was nothing for it except to keep moving and hope the rain would stop, and it did in due course.  By the time I got to Abriachan Campsite and Cafe, the sun had come back out and my clothes were drying.  I stopped at the cafe for some soup, tea, and an absolutely massive slice of lemon sponge.  The price was a slightly steep 17 GBP, but this place has no competition hereabouts so I suppose they can charge what they want.  Very friendly people, though.

Leaving the cafe, it was time for a lengthy section of moorland walking, first along a minor road and then on a path through the heather.  This was probably my favorite part of the day.  The views around me were great, and I knew I was more than halfway through the day.  I got more confident that I would actually be able to finish this day!  Even when I got into a section of forest, and my knees started to protest the length of the day, my spirits remained high.

Abruptly I got to a clearing and a fantastic view of Inverness down below, which meant it was time to start descending.  As I began coming down, I started to see local people out for walks, so I knew I was getting close.  The the (in)famous sign: Inverness Castle, 4 miles.  Go, go, go!  I made my way through Inverness's outskirts, and when I popped out onto the Caledonian Canal I knew I really was getting close.  I passed more people out on late afternoon walks, including a woman completely absorbed with her phone, apparently oblivious to both me and her dog, who was luxuriantly rolling in funk several dozen meters behind her.

I crossed the bridge over the canal and swung around to follow the River Ness, crossing over the very pretty Ness islands.  Then up the east bank of the river, and heaving myself up one final hill to Inverness Castle.  I touched the marker at the official terminus exactly nine hours after beginning my day's walk in Drumnadrochit, and six years, eight months, and thirteen days after starting this, my first ever long-distance walk, from Fort William.  I am so proud and happy that I finished it.

Song of the day: "Prelude/Angry Young Man" by Billy Joel