I've been in Shetland for less than 12 hours, and I already love it.
I got an early train to Aberdeen yesterday and spent the day wandering around the area immediately around the train station and ferry terminal. A good part of that was at a mall. I ate lunch, saw a movie (Seeking a Friend for the End of the World), and discovered that cross-stitching supplies are WAY more expensive in the UK than they are in the US.
Then I got on the ferry, which left Aberdeen at 7pm. I dropped my stuff in my shared cabin and spent the next few hours eating dinner, watching the Scottish mainland shrink up on deck, and reading academic papers. I had a less-than-restful night in the cabin. Toward dawn, as we got closer to Shetland, I could feel the waves getting bigger. My body still thinks it's on the boat at the moment. The ferry arrived in Lerwick at about 7:30 this morning, and I walked from the ferry terminal to my hostel. I got acquainted with the guy at the front desk, and then wandered off in search of an ATM and breakfast.
If I had to describe Shetland in one phrase, it would be "almost Scandinavian but not quite." The houses are almost Nordic-looking but not quite. The Islanders' speech is almost Scandinavian (and I swear I've heard some pseudo-Dutch phrases used in greeting) but not quite. The atmosphere is lighter than on the mainland. The air is cleaner. I've seen more sun today than I have in the last two weeks put together. There's an air of small-town neighborliness. This afternoon I was hanging out by the harbor, near the dock for the Bressay ferry. (Bressay is the island just across the harbor from Lerwick.) The ferry had just pulled away when a kid came running up, trying to catch it, and the ferry actually reversed direction and came back for him.
I wandered down Commercial Street in the town center, before many of the shops had opened for the day. Having found an ATM, I came back to the hostel and had a nap, a shower, and a change of clothes. Then I went back into town. I had intended to just do some browsing, but I ended up buying 2 CDs of Shetland fiddle music, and three bars of locally-made soap.
I love this place already, and I can't wait to see more of it in the coming days.
Cheers, y'all.
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