Hadrian’s Wall, part 1 of 3

Friday 26 April 2019

I slept brilliantly last night.

The day dawned rainy, so I tested out my raincoat for the first time, after feeding my Airbnb hosts’ cats, locking up, and sticking the keys through the letterbox.  I’m happy to report that it fits over my hoodie AND is waterproof.

I spent the morning and early afternoon loitering in various cafes and in Waverley station, before catching the mid-afternoon train to Carlisle.  I was quite taken with Carlisle the first time I visited it two years ago, and I’m pleased to discover that I still like it just as much.  I’m writing this in an Italian restaurant near my Airbnb.  I was outside perusing the menu and a server cleaning tables outside spoke up, saying “It’s all good!”  And I didn’t realize until then how badly I needed some random friendliness.  I had a very rough night in Edinburgh a few nights ago, involving a blazing, alcohol-fueled row with someone who I had considered to be an old friend.  It unbalanced me badly and I’m still regaining my equilibrium.  I think being in Carlisle and starting the “walking” part of this walking holiday will be good for that, and for me.

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Saturday 27 April 2019

Bowness-on-Solway to Carlisle - “And we’re off!”
Distance: 15 miles
Start: 8:50am
Finish: 3:40pm
Weather: Mostly cloudy in the morning, some rain in the afternoon

Today’s weather forecast was not promising, and didn’t seem likely to improve overnight as I fell asleep to the sounds of driving rain and howling wind in my attic room in Carlisle.  But I’ve been planning this as my first walking day of the trip for months and didn’t want to back out, so I grimly donned my waterproofs and headed into the town center as the bells of Carlisle Cathedral struck eight.  I caught a taxi to Bowness-on-Solway, and the “walking” part of this walking holiday officially began.

A hazy sun stayed with me all along the minor roads and tarmac causeways leading to Burgh-by-Sands.  I made it to Burgh-by-Sands in just about three hours, and stopped for an hour at Saint Michael’s Church for lunch, a cup of tea, and a wonderfully informative talk about the history of the church from a volunteer there.  Suitably refreshed and having just missed a passing rain shower, I set out again for the second half of the day.

The second half of this day (if you’re traveling eastbound) is much more interesting than the first.  I left hard tarmac roads behind in favor of soft grassy pastures.  I was gratified to see that the stretch where I got stuck in the mud the last time I came this Way is now “paved” with concrete slabs - someone else must have had the same problem!  As I drew nearer to the River Eden, the skies to my north and east got progressively darker.  I could see that it was properly bucketing down rain on the Scottish side of the border, and I just continued to hope that the wind would stay to my back and drive the clouds away from me.  But on the outskirts of Carlisle my luck ran out and it rained and sleeted heavily...but only for about ten minutes.

I was about 20-30 minutes’ walk from my accommodation when I heard the first thunderclap.  I’m carrying aluminum trekking poles...time to hurry!  I probably finished the day at my fastest walking speed ever!!

I still have many miles left to walk on this trip, but I’m taking a moment to be self-congratulatory.  I walked 15 miles in less than 6 hours of walking time today, taking only one substantial break.  Two years ago this would have taken me closer to 10 hours.  And I was ready to be done at the end, but I wasn’t shuffling along whimpering to myself (which had happened before).  My big toes hurt a bit and the right one has a small blister, but other than that my feet did fine and my body feels okay.  All in all, today was a success and I feel good!

Song of the day:  “Polaroids” by Shawn Colvin

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Sunday 28 April 2019

A planned rest day in Carlisle today.  This morning I walked the section of the Hadrian’s Wall Path that goes through Bitts Park as far as Eden Bridge, so that I won’t have to faff around tomorrow trying to find the exact spot where I left off yesterday.

I went to Evensong at Carlisle Cathedral this afternoon, and now I’m watching a bit of TV before re-packing my rucksack.  I feel really, really good about how yesterday went, but I know that walking 14 miles WITH the rucksack tomorrow will be the real test.

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Monday 29 April 2019

Carlisle to Banks - “Getting lost in Rickerby Park.”
Distance: 14 miles
Start: 6:35am
Finish: 2:35pm
Weather: Sunny and mild

I had a restless night last night.  I knew I was missing a highly-anticipated Game of Thrones episode, and last night was my first rain-free night in Carlisle, so I had no white noise to lull me to sleep.  So I was up before 6am and back on the trail not long after.

The early morning was very tranquil and I thoroughly enjoyed the walk out of Carlisle along the River Eden - until I got to Rickerby Park.  I crossed the bridge over the river and was confronted with a triple-fork in the path.  A local gentleman out walking his dog pointed me down the middle, paved, obvious path, but I saw a white acorn blaze over by the left one and decided to follow it.  I was confident in my choice at first, particularly when I saw two more white acorn blazes...but eventually I realized I was walking downstream instead of upstream.  I turned around, made my way back to the fork, and took the right-hand path.  As I walked along, I saw a middle-aged couple go down the center path, and arrive at the far end of the park and the continuation of the trail a little ahead of me.  Lesson:  When a local gives you navigation advice, they probably know what they’re talking about.

I was annoyed with myself for adding unnecessary distance onto an already-long day, but I did my best to just compartmentalize it and enjoy myself.  Because there was SO MUCH to enjoy today!  The sun was out, and the scenery was nice and just got nicer as the day went on.  There was a lot of pasture-walking today, but I find that I don’t mind it when the weather is nice and I’ve got a clear line to follow.  There was some unexpected tarmac-pounding around the hamlet of Dovecote where a field is temporarily closed to walkers, but it was enlivened when I passed a car parked in a layby with the odor of marijuana rolling off it in waves.

Tired and blistered after a long day with a full rucksack, I heaved myself up the massive hill north of Lanercost, bypassed the honesty hut at Haytongate (having already availed myself of two earlier ones), and shambled into Banks.  There are three other Hadrian’s Wall walkers staying at this B&B tonight: a Scottish couple named Ron and Pam, and a Dutch girl whose name I didn’t catch.  The party bus to the pub departs at 7pm!

Song of the day:  “A Case of You” by Joni Mitchell

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Tuesday 30 April 2019

Banks to Greenhead - “Wide Open Spaces”
Distance: 6 miles
Start: 9:20am
Finish: 12:55pm
Weather: Sunny and warm

I got a later start this morning since I knew I didn’t have far to go.  The sun was out again, but unlike yesterday when there was an easterly breeze blowing in my face for much of the day, the air was very still today.  Which means it got very warm, very quickly.  I had to take a quick break at Birdoswald Fort to de-layer and drink some water.

We’re getting to the picturesque part of Hadrian’s Wall now.  It was a clear enough day today that leaving Birdoswald, I could see the Pennine Hills in the distance - what’s in store for me over the next few days!

I crossed Willowford Bridge and walked along an intact section of the wall for a while - between it and a fence.  A ewe and her lamb were on the path ahead of me, and a gentleman and his dog were coming the other way, so there was a tense moment when I wondered what the sheep would do.  Luckily she found a low part of the wall for herself and the lamb to jump over (presumably how they got onto the path in the first place), and all was well.

I stopped in Gilsland for an ice cream and then pressed on toward Greenhead, crossing the county border from Cumbria into Northumberland.  After Gilsland is when the miles start to feel very long.  Everyone has to slow their pace because there are many gates and ladder stiles to cross. The elevation begins to undulate more, in preparation for entering the Pennines.  In short, this is where the hard work begins.  But it’s where the even greater beauty begins, too.

There was a moment this morning when I took a pause, looked around me at the wide open countryside, and realized there was nowhere else on Earth I would rather be.

Song of the day:  “Get Busy” by Sean Paul